ENGLISH COUNTRY HOUSES
Category: Land + PeopleThere is nothing quite like the English country house anywhere else in the world. France has her chateaux, Italy her historic villas, Spain her gardens like the Generalife hooked on to the hillside, Germany her robber castles, but the exact equivalent of what we mean by the English country house is not to be found elsewhere.
It may be large, it may be small; it may be palatial, it may be manorial; it may be of stone, brick, stucco, or even of beams and plaster; it may be the seat of the aristocracy or the home of the gentry — whatever it is, it possesses one outstanding characteristic: it is the English country house.
You may observe that I do not pul a hyphen between the two words. I write “country house”, not “country-house”. This is deliberate. It is because I want to emphasize that the house is essentially part of the country, not only in the country, but part of it, a natural growth. Irrespective of grandeur or modesty, it should agree with its landscape and suggest the life of its inhabitants past or present; should never overwhelm its surroundings. The peculiar genius of the English country house lies in its knack of fitting in.
The English are rural-minded people on the whole, which perhaps explains why our rural domestic architecture is so much better than our urban. Our cities, generally speaking, are deplorable. There is a lack of design which must make the French smile. When the French hint delicately at this we are apt to murmur “Bath,” and then come to a full stop. Challenged further, we produce Oxford and Cambridge; and then fall back on certain cathedral towns: York, Durham, Salisbury, Canterbury. Challenged again, we fall back on our third line of defence: our small country towns, say Chippenham, or Abingdon, Burford, Painswick, Devizes, Lewes. Challenged once more, we fall back on the fourth line where we find ourselves in an even stronger position. We have not been able to put up much defence for our cities, but once we are reduced to fighting on our villages we have a number of outposts. Their names are too many to record. We all have our favourites which come to the mind with a vision of moors or a memory of running water; hidden amongst trees or gazing across the sea; grey stone villages, pink brick villages; villages of the soft south country or the north, they belong to the soil in the same sense as the country house belongs to the soil and indeed are frequently and happily associated with it. The cottage, the farm, and the manor are the same in spirit.
After the massive secrecy of Berkeley one turns to the mirrored magic of Leeds and Broughton, floating swanlike above their moats. Leeds, fortunately for itself, is nowhere near the industrial town of that name, but lies in a hollow of Kent between Maidstone and Canterbury. Its moat is no regular geometrical moat, but a saucer of a lake spreading flat at the bottom of its bowl of green slopes. Black swans pass gravely and gracefully under the arches of the castle, making the pale grey of the walls seem even paler. The very fact that the water passes under arches turns Leeds Castle into a Kentish Venice. By moonlight the solid walls have no substance; they drift,, they seem scarcely moored. Broughton does not now rise quite so abruptly as Leeds out of the water. At Broughton there are lawns which interrupt the reflection, but in an unexpected way these level English lawns almost take the place of water; it is merely that they are opaque instead of translucent; they are green as water though less quivering, less sensitive to clouds or sunlight.
England is green throughout; her seas, her woods, her fields all islandgreen. Green, quiet England. Old, quiet England, disliking war, never having known war at home in the sense that European countries knew war. No devastation, no wrecking of villages and the homes of man, whether castle or cottage. There might be incidents as at Berkeley, where a breach was deliberately cut in the walls after Cromwell’s troops had stormed the castle, a breach which exists to this day, never to be repaired, on the understanding that the castle must be handed back io the Crown if ever the gap should be mended. Such is the continuity of English history. We suffer (or enjoy) today the arrangements made for us several hundred years ago, a little filament of tradition running’through the centuries. As a result of a siege in 1645 the eighteenth Lord Berkeley was forbidden to mend his house; today, in 1941, the twenty-eighth Lord Berkeley, a lineal descendant, may not build up his house either. A curious obligation to impose on a man in the twentieth century, to render his castle undefendable!
The middling houses of England during this period, say 1670 to 1780, may be counted among the most quietly charming, convex nient, and decent houses ever built. Decent, I think, is the adjective „they best deserve. They are unassuming. They are as quiet as the country squire and the country existence where they belonged. They take their place, in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, as opposite numbers to The Gothic or early Tudor or Elizabethan or Jacobean muddles which preceded them. They belong to an England which, architecturally, was beginning to grow up.
Many things might be said about these middling houses, but the chief thing to be said is that they accommodate themselves well into the English landscape. [...]
I must emphasise once more the peculiar genius of the minor English house for fitting into its surroundings. The castle, the pseudocastle, the Tudor house, the Jacobean house, they all fitted in. The only time when they went wrong was whenever they outgrew their native idiom and swelled beyond the small vernacular adapted to their small island. England is not an exciting country considered
in terms of landscape. We have no dramatic mountain ranges, no grand valleys, no enormous splits in our earth compared with the canyons of Arizona. We have no extravagant climatic or geological accidents such as typhoons, hurricanes or earthquakes. We have no extremes of climate; we are never much too cold or much too hot. This moderation reflects itself in our temperament. We are not excessive in any direction, and this lack of exaggeration which is both the strength and the weakness of our racial make-up, this sense of proportion, the Englishness which exasperates those born with a more excitable, more Latin nature, finds its expression in our national architecture.
The moderation of the English temperament thus found something satisfactory to itself in the neat and tidy houses born of the new fashion. It may seem curiou that the grandeur of the Italian model should ever have accommodated itself to the exigencies of the English Cathedral Close, the English small country town, the English village street, the English parkland and the squire’s estate: Yet so it was. We took the style and broke it down to our own needs. Once again we took something from Italy. As in literature our Elizabethan poets took extravagant Italian romances and piled-up murders and then turned them into dramas of the English stage, so later, in terms of architecture, did we take and adapt the Italian classical tradition to our own mild requirements. We tempered it, and on this principle I think one may safely say that the smaller houses of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries adapted themselves to requirements of decency and conveniece quite as well as the sixteenth century English house adapted itself to the more romantic requirements of its own day. To pass through England with such considerations always present in the mind, trying them out on every example encountered, is to double the interest and amusement and speculation which such a journey provokes. It is not enough mildly to enjoy the pleasant frontages we espy over the hedge or as our motor car travels along the streets of villages and little towns. Pleasant indeed they are, with their porticos and pediments, bay- windows and sash-windowTs, and all they offer of agreeable rooms within: rooms largely and calmly panelled in ivory-painted wood, with alcoves for china-shelves scooped into the walls, elegant Chinese Chippendale chairs and writing-tables nicely disposed, chintzes on the arm-chairs and sofas; in short, not the homes of the grand nobility nor of the nouveaux-riches of that day, but the homes either of the country gentry or the middle-class, the quiet, solid English upper middle-class, the doctors and the solicitors and the arch-deacons, hommes de robe rather than hommes d’ipee. Hommes de robe de chambre. Tame, it may be said. True; but the English are always tame until they become fierce. They prefer being tame to fierce.
The interest of driving through England is enhanced if we drive in this noticing spirit. It is amusing to guess at the date of the little house we pass and then to verify our guess by the guide-book or subsequent enquiry. It is salutary to discover how far out we may be in our reckoning. The earlier centuries may well bewilder us with their congeries and conglomerations, but in this later period we must take shame if, nine times out of ten, the deliberate design does not proclaim its reign.
(From English Country Houses by V. Sackville-West)